Lake Phoksundo Trek

Some of the main highlights of the circuit are

1. Shey-Phoksundo Lake

The mystic Phoksundo Lake with its distinct greenish blue colour which varies with time of the day is the main focus of Phoksundo National Park. It is widely considered as the deepest lake in Nepal with max depth of 650m but a recent research found the max depth to be 145m less than that of Rara [max depth – 160m]. The lake is picturesque and scenic. The view you can get from the surrounding trail to Shey-Gompa is one of the highlight of the main trek. The locals say that the lake is devoid of any organism but there are definitely no fishes or any large enough visible organism.

2. Dolpo

Dolpo or Dolpa is the largest district of Nepal; more than 150 times larger than Kathmandu district in terms of area but it remains one of the least developed districts. The cultural traditions of Dolpa are basically linked with the Tibetan culture as people here are more closely connected with the Tibet and practice Bon religion [although not sure what that is]. The trail is part of ancient Tibetan salt caravan route. The trails and the lifestyle of Dolpo have been captured by Eric Valli in his Oscar nominated movie ‘Caravan’. Most of them are intact which is good. Still Dolpo is largely undeveloped so don’t expect good lodging and sanitary facilities

3. The Scenic High Passes

For information, passes are generally the lowest point in the mountain range and the highest point on the route, from which one can travel from one side of the range to the other side. The passes are usually the only flat ground in the area. As the winds escapes from one side to other side of the pass, wind speeds are expected to be high at the passes usually after 12pm.

One trail crosses number of passes which are equally scenic and wonderful like the lake. The trek includes following passes

From Phoksundo to Jumla

Kagmara Pass [5115m]

Moure Langa [3894m – border between Dolpa and Jumla]

Gothichour La [2995m – passing a small scenic valley which is currently sheep breeding center]

All these passes are as good as the lake. However all these passes mean that you will be constantly ascending and descending instead of gradually ascending. All the passes are almost always marked by Chorten and Prayer flags.

4. The Kagmara Pass [5115m]

The 5115m Kagmara Pass connects Phoksunda valley to Kaigaun. The view from the Kagmara Pass is great. You can view the surrounding mountain range and even some otherwise unnoticeable lakes and glaciers. But the Kagmara pass is challenging as you need to spend a night outdoors, the trails are narrow and high at some point, crosses many streams at KangmaraPhedi [which can be difficult in rainy season], and very few people use this route. There are two caves at Kagmara Phedi where one can spend the night without the need of camps but sleeping bags are needed. There are no settlements in between Pungmo village and Army post on the next side of the pass which took us about 36 hours.

You can skip the Kagmara Pass and reach Kaigaun by returning to Sulighat and take the more popular path from there but that would add half a day to the tour.

5. The town of Jumla

Jumla town lying on the on the banks of the Tila River is the district headquarter of Jumla District and the largest town in the Karnali zone. At 2514m height, Jumla is claimed as one of the highest rice growing areas in the world. Although that can’t be verified, you should definitely try local red rice with ghee which has a special taste.

Jumla is also the starting point of the 2 days trek to Rara Lake.

6. Experiencing Karnali

Karnali is the largest but one of the poorest and most remote regions of Nepal partly because of absence of road connection and low agricultural production. Planes are the main means of transport. The life in Karnali is difficult so don’t expect good lodging and sanitary facilities except in Jumla. If you are not ok with that bring your own sleeping bag. People here don’t bath for months because temperature is usually low and water is just too cold. I tried to shampoo my hair on way to Pokhsundo, It had turned out to be really difficult thing to do.

We did observed few improvements. Smokeless metal stoves have replaced traditional mud ones in most houses and toilets are now used by everyone. All the activities happen in the Kitchen where the heat of the stove is. However it all gets gloomy during winter when snow disrupts daily life in most of the area.

But there are of course some compromises to be made. Most part of Karnali is still undeveloped which mean no electricity, difficult trails. The lodging, fooding and sanitary facilities are at best basic. For more details of what is available and what is not check the ‘Facilities and Expenses’ section

We made the journey in October when the weather was fine. The Wikipedia page suggests the best visiting time to the Lake to be September/October and April/May. Monsoon season is short in this region occurring between the months of July to October. Unlike Annapurna circuit the number of visitors visiting the national park is low even during prime season [at least for now]

The tour Itinerary is based on the travel done on October 2012. Note that this Itinerary gives you how you should travel based on our experience and not how we travelled. As we tend to travel faster to save time, the Itinerary tends to be the shortest you can manage so you may add a day to the schedule. The other itineraries of the circuit on Internet are usually longer than this. Those itineraries are guided treks intended for foreigners who tend to have time.

You can extend your trek to the Rara lake from Jumla if you have time and energy.

All the location name and heights are taken from the Map published by Himalayan Map House.

Day 1

Kathmandu to Nepalgunj

The bus from Kathmandu takes us to Nepalgunj, which is the main city in mid west region of Nepal. The tickets are easily available at Gongabu Bus stop counter. It is better to book the plane ticket a few days earlier either thorough an agent or through airlines office. Generally for Jumla most airlines fly there but for Juphal in Dolpo and Talcha in Mugu, the airlines that flies there are mostly ‘Sita Air’ and ‘Goma Air’. The ticket to Juphal cost us Rs 10,000 per person.

We stayed at our friend’s home which is at Nepalgunj but hotels are readily available. Check the ‘Necessary Items’ list and buy all the items here. Except at Jumla, it may be difficult to buy the items elsewhere in Karnali.

Day 2

Nepalgunj – Juphal [2475m] – Chhepka [2720m]

From Nepalgunj we fly to Juphal, which is a basic airport that connects Dolpa District to outside. The flights are always scheduled for morning. It is normal for planes to get delayed or even postponed due to weather. The planes are basic 7-9 seater ones. At the time of the visit the runaway at Juphal was unpaved hence landing was bumpy. From Juphal we hit Sulighat where road splits to Phoksundo valley and to Dunai the head quarter of Dolpa. There are few settlements where we can have the afternoon meal before finally settling down at Chhepka which is a small settlement of not more than 10 houses. The journey takes about 5-6 hours

The cost of meal can was 150 with lodging facility being free.

Day 3

Chhepka – Ringmogaun&Phoksundo Lake [3641m]

From Chhepka we start early towards north to Phoksundo valley. The paths aren’t confusing and are clearly marked. The road reaches Shumdhuwa after 4-5 hours of journey which is a major junction with fooding facilities. We travel through western road through forests and follow a steep climb upto a rest house from where the 200m high water fall can be viewed although from a distance. It has been claimed as the highest waterfall in Nepal. From here we also get the first glimpse of the Phoksundo Lake. It is then at most 2 hours walk to Ringmogaun or the place of Phoksundo Lake. You will reach peaceful Ringmogaun by evening. There are few hotels available here and a telephone network. After freshening up, a visit lake can be made.

Day 4

Ringmogaun – Phoksundo Lake view point – Ringmogaun– Pungmo [3500m]

We start at around 6am to take the path to Shey-Gompa to have the spectacular view of the lake from a height. This is the same path that is shown in the movie ‘Caravan’. The trail rises more than 400m above the lake. It takes about 2 hours to reach the top from where the whole lake is visible, you may move forward to PhoksundoKhola Camp but we returned back to Ringmogaon. From here we move return back to Samduwa and cross the bridge and head to small Pungmo village to cross the challenging Kagmara pass the next day.

Pungmo village is the last settlement before Kagmara pass. From Pungmo village, the next settlement is the Army Camp [no fooding facilities here] which took us total of about 18 hours of walking. If you aren’t prepared or intend to stay outside you can skip the Kagmara Pass and reach Kaigaun by returning to Sulighat and take the more popular path from there but that would add half a day to the tour.

Day 5

Pungmo – Kagmara La Pass [5115m] – KagmaraPhedi [3500m]

From Pungmo village we start early at 5:00am in morning. We pack as much food as possible then it is the gradual climb towards the Kagmara Pass. The Kagmara pass is a very wide and long pass and it took us nearly 2 hours to cross the pass only from the camp site. There are several streams on the way so a water proof shoe is necessary. Look for the sign of Acute Mountain sickness. The pass is marked by chorten and prayer flags as always. The top of the pass is too cold and windy to stay. But from the pass the surrounding ranges along with lakes and glaciers are visible.

We crossed the pass at about 2pm. It is then rocky descend to the KagmaraPhedi. Once at KagmaraPhedi, where we travel through the banks of Kagmara River, there are two caves or natural shelters used by people to stay. You are expected to use these as the next shelter spot is at least 4 hours ahead. We spend the night in 2nd shelter. It was October, and it was cold but we managed to light the fire. Water is cold but easily available.

Day 6

KagmaraPhedi – Kaigaon [2610m]

From the KagmaraPhedi we follow a narrow and difficult trail up to the army camp. It took us half a day to reach here. From this point the trial gets easier and there are settlements and monastry on the way. You can reach Kaigaon by evening where you can find lodging and fooding facilities.

Day 7

Kaigaon – MaureLanga pass [3894m] – Chotra [3380m]

This is indeed a really long distance to cover and including a 3894m pass. The trail passes through hillside and you can have meal at NauliGhot. After an hour of climb we reach MaureLanga Pass. This pass divides Dolpo district from Jumla. Like other passes you are bound to get a superb view, this time of the Bheri river valley and the surrounding hills. From the pass it is a long descent through thick forest to Chotra. Torches may be necessary.

Day 8

Chotra – Gothichaur La [2995m] – Jumla [2540m]

From Chotra, we first pass through Manigaon which is characterized by a long bridge. From here, we don’t take the bridge but move east. The road divides at one point; one takes you directly on route to rara and the other to Jumla. We take the road to left, and there will be people whom you can ask. The Gothichaur valley comes into view all of a sudden. The Gothichaur is a small scenic valley with streams, grassland and jungles in background. It is like a miniature version of Kathmandu valley. The valley is used for sheep breeding research project hence inhabited and clear of human activity but there will be plenty of temporary tent shops on the way.

Crossing Gothichaur we move towards Jumla. The settlements and people start to increase as we move towards Jumla. You should reach Jumla by evening. In Jumla you can buy the supplies. Don’t forget to have the local red rice at Jumla for dinner.

Day 9 -10

Jumla – Nepalgunj or Surkhet – Kathmandu

Plane availability are subject to weather. From Nepalgunj we can short the tour by taking a night bus to Kathmandu

About the Schedule

The trek can be shortened by 1 day if we return to Juphal instead of Jumla. From Jumla the trek can be extended to Rara Lake which should take at minimum 12 days in total [Refer Rara Lake Trek]. If you tend to walk slowly, you can add a day to the schedule; just make sure to cross the pass before night falls.

You should add at least 2 days for bus travel to Kathmandu from transit point of Nepalgunj [or Surkhet]

• Electricity is not available in most places except in Jumla. So make sure your cameras and Mobiles are fully charged
• The Karnali zone is covered mostly by Hello Nepal network. You can buy the sim at Nepalgunj if you want to stay connected. NTC signal is available around Jumla and Juphal.
• ATMs are available at Jumla only.
• Drinking water was not a problem. We drank water directly from the streams without any problem.
• The meal [Dal, Bhat] costs higher as we go up. It was highest at Ringmogaon at Rs 200 per meal. Elsewhere below, it was generally between Rs 100-150 for plain meal
• Accommodation costs are normally free with the meal except in Jumla.
• We incurred in total about Rs. 22000 per person for the whole Phoksundo to Rara trek including air fare and bus transportation cost but it depends on how you travel. It is recommended to skip meat. All the costs are of 2012, you may consider 10% inflation rate for estimate
• As mentioned earlier, guides and going through trekking agencies are absolutely not required. You can save money and give a tip to the local people, hire a local guide midway instead of paying for the trekking agencies. All the people we met were friendly and helpful. However don’t trust them on time required to reach next point as our walking pace is slower than the locals.

Follow the basic rule of Trekking

Take nothing but pictures.

Leave nothing but footprints

Kill nothing but time

Carry all your plastic waste like wrappers, bags and bottles with you and dispose them when you reach a settlement. Where traditional stoves or improved smokeless metal stoves are used they can be used as a fuel.

All the location name and heights are taken from the Map published by Himalayan Map House

www.himalayan-maphouse.com